Over the years I have found dozens of great boulders which have yet to be climbed. Frankly, the open-project to Guidebook Writer ratio is just too dang high right now, and some of these boulders are just nails hard. So rather than keeping these bad boys to myself, or worse, possibly leaving them unclimbed and letting them slip back into obscurity – I decided to make them available to whomever has the spunk to get out and try them. For each project I have supplied the following:
This project was originally found back in 2014 on a day trip with my friend Evan. He listed the project on Mountain Project, and his description is as follows: “With a pad on the bulge just below the boulder, start with a right hand on a slightly in cut but sharp crimp. And a left hand above that on a sloping crimp. With on foot power out right to another crimp and find a foot to gain the next to vertical side pulls. The high point is at the second sidepull right under the last bulge of the boulder.” To my knowledge, this has yet to be climbed. The day we all tried it we only cleaned the first few holds on the climb, so it could probably do with a good cleaning overall. Approximate grade would be V6 and up.
This is a fantastic little problem with a rare flat landing. All the crimps are bomber (yet small) and the entire problem is overhanging from 5-15 degrees. The overall hike in takes about 30 minutes, but this problem, and those around it, amply make up for the hike. Sit start matched on a full pad crimp with several options for feet. Make a big first move to your first quarter pad crimp and continue up and right. Low hands, high feet, and small holds make this a tough one to crack. I would place this at V8 and up.
UPDATE: There are now four problems located on this wall. Each starts just right of center where the horizontal crack begins. Problem 1 was completed this last weekend, and project 4 was added!
1. “The Riddler” V3. Climbs directly up the face following the vertical seem in the wall. Some tricky moves at the start gain you undercling after undercling. Tops out right.
2. Follows the horizontal crack left until it ends. Finishes up and right on small crimps. V8+
3. Follows the horizontal crack left until it ends. Finishes up and left with a big move off of two sidepulls. V8+
4. Stand start just to the right of the first three problems on great crimps and good feet. Move up and right to a razor thin crimp, and then into a terrible left hand gaston. Move for the lip and Mantel.
This project was initially shown to me by Evan, and to my knowledge has not seen an ascent as of yet. It too is listed on Mountain Project, and his description is as follows: “Stand start on two distinctive crimps with any foot you can find the ability to use. Power up to a sloping bulge and continue a right leaning traverse with some powerful sloper hands and heal hooks. Some love will go into brushing this beauty up, possibly making the top section seem more possible. Awaits a ballsy first ascent.” Ballsy is right. This one tops out at 20-25 feet and has its hardest moves towards the top. It would be quite the tick.
While there are two problems annotated on this photo, only one is a project. “1” highlights “Jungle Jedi” V10 which was first climbed by Kyle Hilton. This was the low start to “Jungle Vader” V8 which was climbed a few years before. The issue with both of these previous problems is that neither of them exits the cave, but rather they both just end on the last large tooth hold under the roof. The full line certainly seems possible, but would definitely go in the upper double digits. This may be the states second V13, or its first V14/15 – but we won’t know until someone climbs it. 1. Start under the overhang on the long sloping rail, and work your way up and into the holds on the roof. Through levitation, fingers of steel, and precision motor control, work your way out of the roof and onto the face.